So it's been 3 weeks and a few hundred amazingly scenic miles in the high Sierras since I've last been at a computer (I'm in Mammoth Lakes now - mile 900). Over the last 200 miles I've hiked nearly all of the John Muir Trail (which shares the PCT), climbed Mt. Whitney, and hiked over Forester Pass (13,000'+, the highest point on the PCT). While many try to pass through this section pretty quick, I decided to carry a lot of extra food (I was only able to resupply once) and take my time - though I essentially had to starve myself for the last few days. The terrain is spectacular, but tough going. They say that a 25 mile day before getting to the Sierras is the same as a 15 mile day in the Sierras - lots of elevation change, and snow, rocks, and boulders cover a lot of the trail.
Over the course of 19 nights, I camped at least 10 nights over 11,000' in elevation, and crossed quite a few snowy and icy passes. At the last minute I decided not to carry an ice axe and crampons, and there were definately quite a few times that I was cursing myself for not having them. Crossing the passes took quite a bit of planning. It was always a tradeoff between getting to the pass too early and having the steep sections at the top being a sheet of ice, or getting to lower, but still snow-covered, areas too late. Even by mid-morning, the snow gets really soft and you can spend hours post-holing (punching through the snow up to your thighs with every step). I usually opted for hitting the pass while icy, though it definately made for some very scary early mornings! One pass in particular (Muir Pass) had about 6 miles of nothing but snow to cross! I also took a 15 mile detour to Iva Bell Hot Springs that few on the trail know about. It's a series of hot pools up a steep hillside, with beautiful views of the valley below - PERFECT, as it had been over 2 weeks since I last showered. The best part is that its 13 miles from any trailhead, so not very crowded, and all very fun people.
I'm still having lots of trouble keeping on weight, despite eating tons of food high in fat and calories. I've started going through lots of olive oil and peanut butter, which apparently have the highest calorie:weight ratio out there, and I always have at least 3 snickers bar/day. That's right - I ate over 50 snickers bars through the high Sierra section! I'm still loving the early mornings - I wake up naturally at 5 am every day to the first chirping of birds, and am generally asleep by 9 pm. The early mornings are my favorite, crisp cool air, beautiful sunrise, and I pretty much have the trail to myself.
Next, I hike through a large section of Yosemite National Park, and then I get to meet up with Monica and my parents for a few days in Tahoe - then Monica is going to hike 60 miles with me. Needless to say - I'm VERY excited!!!
I am sooooo jealous of your adventures as i plug away at my research in front of a computer on a beautiful day.... Soak it up - sounds like you are!
ReplyDeleteKristin
Did you see Mark Young on the trail? He and his wife Linda just got done backpacking in the Sierras (Maybe on the John Muir trail?) for a month!
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